![]() If you have further questions please contact us here, or by phone at 88 during business hours. Click hereto see how to make the measurements, or refer to the attached PDF. If you are concerned with possibility of hatch contact there are a few simple measurements you can take to determine if there may be any interference with the cargo box when your hatch is open. Hatch contact is a concern for many users, this is not considered when we call a box as fit, as it doesn't impact the safe attachment of the box to the cross bars. To see if if any of our boxes are options for your vehicle's factory rack please check Fit My Car and enter your vehicle information. Crossbar spread (distance from the front to the rear bar) is too narrow or too wide.If the crossbars are curved, gaps between the bottom and the top may occur which can cause the box to fly open on the road.The crossbars (or mounting points) may sag or incur damage from the weight of the box and your gear.The crossbars may be too low to the roof for our mounting hardware to clear which may cause some scratching.Not too shabby.Our cargo boxes will fit most factory cross bars, fitting the bar is only part of the equation. There are several reasons why we may not recommend using a cargo box with your factory crossbars. I got 41-42 mpg with the 4 people and the box, doing 70+ on I-5 in California, up the Grapevine. Much better handling and *much* longer lasting, but that's another thread. Gas mileage? I get 46-48 MPG freeway at home switching to Michelin Defender tires cost ~ 2 mpg compared to the OEM LRR tires. Wind noise was negligible with just the rack, and became noticeable with the box only when going over 70 mph. I think I might trade up to the larger size and mount a donut spare tire in there for long trips. I took the luggage cover off and we could reach back to the cooler for drinks while on the road. I didn't have to wedge the back so tightly that you couldn't get to anything, and the passenger compartment was luggage free. I was able to get one big suitcase, a full-sized carry-on bag and a kids roller carry-on bag into the box, which made packing the rest of the car for 2 adults, 2 kids and 5 days leisurely. I was able to cobble something together with bolts and metal plates, but it never felt securely mounted. Looks vaguely like this, but mine is one of the original boxes. The key can't be removed while the box is unlocked, FYI. I have an original Yakima RocketBox I purchased used. To mount, you loosen the mounts on the inside of the box, adjust them to fit your bars and tighten them down - it took me about 5 minutes, and was a little clumsy to get onto the rack but could do it myself in a pinch. Long and lean, the Yakima RocketBox Pro 11 roof box builds on a tried-and-true Yakima classic by offering plentiful storage and easy access to your gear. It opens on either side, which made mounting easy. The box didn't require any assembly, unlike the cheaper Thule box I looked at, and was very solid. The manual included settings for most cars and went on in 10 minutes with a little bit of trial and error. The rack was inexpensive at $145 and didn't require any add-ons - I was annoyed at Thule and Yakima bars where you need to buy the ends, then buy a "fit kit", then pick the bars you want. I just got back from a 1000 mile trip with my new cargo box - I bought a Sportrack SR1002 rack and Yakima Rocket Box Pro 12 cargo box for my 2014 Plug-in Prius.
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